Tiffany & Co. Reissues Designs by Elsa Peretti, an Icon in the Jewelry Industry
BARRY SAMAHA
From Harper's BAZAAR
The name Elsa Peretti carries a lot of weight in the jewelry world. Joining Tiffany & Co. as a byline designer in 1974, after a successful turn as a model, the Italian-born jewelry designer created collections so classic that they have remained best sellers for nearly five decades. Her sensual, sculptural pieces—from the Bean Design and the Open Heart to the Mesh Necklace and the Bone Cuff—riff on the organic forms found in nature, becoming staples for jewelry aficionados, and really anyone who values timeless design.
“I don’t have the feeling that I need to add a lot to my collection, because I have an incredibly wide range of things,” said the 80-year-old Peretti—who is now retired, living in Spain’s Catalonia region. “This is part of the secret of my things, that they are still valid.”
To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Bone Cuff—worn by style icons across the generations, including Liza Minnelli, Catherine Deneuve, and Margot Robbie—Tiffany & Co. has reissued nine of Peretti’s signature pieces with slight twists. The assortment of gold and silver Bone Cuffs, for example, feature teardrop-shaped gems in turquoise, tiger’s eye, and white, black, or green jade which complement the bold, form-fitting style.
Also on offer is an update of her iconic Mesh designs, intricately woven 18-karat bibs that are now embellished with 66 round brilliants or an emerald tumbled beads, along with silk cord necklaces that feature pendants made of aquamarine, tourmaline, or rare South Sea Keshi pearls. Many of the pieces were made by artisans in Peretti’s own village.
A true revolutionary, Peretti’s designs were a departure from the heavy, ornamental style that traditionally characterized fine jewelry. She changed the perception of luxury, making fine jewelry more relatable to women on the go, and to those who understand the profound allure of simplicity. Many have since tried to emulate the vibe that Peretti created, but as we all know, nothing beats the original.
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