Saturday, November 7, 2026

The rise of the intellectual influencer / Why the fashion industry is turning to writers and artists

 

PATRICIA BOLAÑOS

The rise of the intellectual influencer: Why the fashion industry is turning to writers and artists

Luxury brands and social media algorithms, working hand in hand, are elevating intellectuals, creating book clubs and sponsoring literary and artistic prizes. Welcome to the internet’s most cerebral season yet

KARELIA VÁZQUEZ
OCT 09, 2026 - 11:47 COT

White Nights, a short novel by Fyodor Dostoevsky first published in 1848, is the latest literary discovery of Generation Z. TikTok users seem to be talking about little else.


The lament of the novel’s narrator, a young man in St. Petersburg, appears in post after post: “My God, how could I have thought it? How could I have been so blind, when everything had been taken by another already, when nothing was mine.”


Readers, sincere and performative alike, use it to recount their first encounter with the Russian writer, who — at least this much is clear — is not a creation of artificial intelligence.


With the unlikely popularity of reels quoting the French sociologist Pierre Bourdieu, an entire generation has learned to distinguish between economic, social and cultural capital, and is now finding ways to bring the theory into all kinds of conversations.


Over the past two years, social media platforms have acquired new layers of conceptual complexity. Skincare routines coexist with structuralist quotations, and Zara hauls with stacks of books displayed spine-out to the camera, to be revealed one by one by a new authority figure making the rounds online: the intellectual influencer.


The new authority figure does not sell supplements, workout plans or, really, any product at all. If anything, they share recommendations and ideas without a hint of condescension. The only thing they inspire people to want is knowledge.


Everyone wants to think online these days. The appeal of this figure does not lie in aspiration or in a desire to shock. Their influence comes from distinctive, well-grounded ideas on difficult subjects: from philosophy and quantum physics to geopolitics and literary theory.


Instead of offering a product to consume, they offer followers a framework for thinking. And when they recommend a book, its longer shelf life sparks new conversations. Their content does not disappear once consumed; it accumulates. Followers, often left with the feeling that they know more than they did before, respond with heartfelt compliments: “Today, you unlocked something in my brain...”


Under the broad umbrella of intellectual content, social media platforms now host everything from academics with niche but loyal audiences on YouTube to writers with a newsletter more powerful than any book publisher’s marketing campaign.

Actress Emma Corrin taking part in Miu Miu’s book club in Milan.CEDIDA POR MIU MIU

Influencers who explain things may be the best way to sum up the state of the internet in 2026. Dazed magazine described the trend as an “epidemic of explainers,” also known as thinkfluencers.


“These days, there’s an explainer video for every topic you can imagine, and swarms of thinkfluencers — often armed with tiny mics — popping up left, right and center,” writes Laura Pitcher. “Much of it is highly researched, and much of it is not — such is the nature of algorithmic culture, which rewards volume. Almost all of it, however, follows a similar format and at least has the appearance of being informative. At the very least, its popularity suggests that many young people want their scrolling to feel educational.”


Victoria Ballester, 19, explains her generation’s sudden interest in highbrow topics as a response to “a certain unease about not doing anything with their lives or wasting time on the internet with insipid videos.” “In the end, people feel better if a post recommends eight books; they save the list and feel they have fulfilled an intellectual activity, whether they read them or not. Even if they’ve never read a philosopher, they can cite one to look good, or if someone throws out quotes in a reel from, I don’t know, The Bell Jar, they gain prestige, even if the content is easy and there was no work behind it.”

Those who study the trend argue that the followers flocking to these creators are largely the same people who once gravitated toward traditional influencers, but are more discerning and increasingly weary of content centered on aspiration and consumption. Rather than a rejection of the algorithm, they see it as evidence of an audience that is maturing. And it is no niche audience. According to BookTok data, 59% of users between 16 and 25 say an intellectual influencer helped spark their interest in reading. In 2025 alone, the hashtag #intellectualinfluencer generated more than 370 billion views across 52 million videos.


Violeta Dávila, founder of the cultural consultancy Be Cooltural, believes that an excess of superficiality has pushed people toward content that offers a “refuge” from the noise. “It’s an interest we see not only among users but also among brands, which now prefer to associate themselves with a different kind of profile,” she says.


This type of content talks about literature, art and philosophy, and creates safe, welcoming spaces that rarely descend into polarization or online spats.

The fashion company Bottega Veneta sensed the shift in 2025 when it hired Zadie Smith for its Craft Is Our Language campaign. Smith, who publishes a novel roughly once a decade and is famously wary of social media, embodied the “expensive” aura and distance from the internet the brand was looking for: “the desire for a simple, intellectual and thoughtful life.”


That same year, Prada enlisted novelist Ottessa Moshfegh (author of My Year of Rest and Relaxation) to write an original work of fiction for its spring-summer campaign, issuing it as a limited-edition volume with a luxury binding that was sold in the brand’s stores.


Miu Miu launched an exclusive feminist book club that drew large crowds during Milan Design Week, while Chanel hosted a writers’ retreat at La Pausa, Gabrielle Chanel’s home in Provence.


Valentino sponsored the Booker Prize in 2024, and Saint Laurent opened a bookstore on Paris’s Left Bank.

Actress Isabella Rossellini with a Bulgari jewelry bag that holds a miniature book she wrote.CEDIDA POR BULGARI

Dávila notes that books have become fashionable at an aesthetic level, too. “Zara sells T-shirts with the message ‘Read More;’ Dua Lipa, Reese Witherspoon and Charlotte Casiraghi turn every book they touch in their book clubs into best sellers. There’s been an aesthetic shift; the ‘nerd’ and ‘bookworm’ archetypes are now seen as attractive,” she observes.

Ballester is reading The Brothers Karamazov. In her class, it has become fashionable to carry a copy of Dostoevsky’s novel, or Tolstoy’s War and Peace, in a transparent tote bag that leaves no doubt about the kind of literature one is reading.


In an age of endless scrolling and fragmented attention, a book, especially a physical one, says a great deal about the person carrying it. It has become a marker of distinction and good taste.


Reading, meanwhile, has come to be seen as a privilege. The latest PISA results show that many people struggle to understand a text of just 400 words. To read requires skills that are becoming increasingly scarce: sustained attention, depth, effort and time. It was perhaps inevitable that books, like anything that becomes difficult, would turn into objects of desire.

“Reading is a virtuous activity; those who practice it are presumed to have personality, and that is very attractive because nobody has it these days,” says Ballester.


If there were a way to tell the classic influencer apart from its intellectual counterpart at a glance, it would start with aesthetics. Their posts are filled with bookshelves, handwritten notes on loose sheets of paper and carefully highlighted passages from novels. There is usually a minimalist desk suggesting order and focus, and the scene is invariably bathed in warm light or illuminated by a candle.


The uniform tends to include a dark turtleneck sweater and perhaps a pair of oversized but tastefully designed reading glasses. Everything is meant to project elegance and intellectual authority. And despite all the visual clichés of that carefully curated stage set, audiences expect more substance than performance, assuming the algorithm, the ultimate gatekeeper, allows it.

EL PAIS




Friday, November 6, 2026

The Book of Emma Reyes / A Memoir

 


The Book of Emma Reyes: A Memoir 

(A Penguin Classics Hardcover)

de Emma Reyes (Autor), Daniel Alarcón (Traductor, Introducción) 

“Startling and astringently poetic.” —The New York Times

A literary discovery: an extraordinary account, in the tradition of The House on Mango Street and Angela’s Ashes, of a Colombian woman’s harrowing childhood

Emma Reyes (1919-2003)

 

Emma Reyes, Courtesy The Estate of Emma Reyes - Paris


Emma Reyes

Emma Reyes (1919–2003) was a Colombian painter and writer whose work vividly captures themes of displacement, memory, and resilience. Unrecognized for much of her life, her fame surged posthumously with her haunting memoir, “The Book of Emma Reyes (Memoria por correspondencia)”. Her literary prose and visual art intimately expose the harsh realities of a poverty-stricken childhood in Bogotá, offering a powerful narrative of survival, identity, and artistic self-realization.

By Efi Michalarou
Photo: White Cube Gallery Archive

Emma Reyes / Portraits


Emma Reyes
Portraits


Thursday, November 5, 2026

Eiko Yamazawa

Eiko Yamazawa (Japanese, 1899-1995) '(Untitled (Yasue Yamamoto as Okichi in "Elegy for a Woman" by Yuzo Yamamoto))' c. 1943-1944, printed 1944

 

Eiko Yamazawa (Japanese, 1899-1995)
(Untitled (Yasue Yamamoto as Okichi in “Elegy for a Woman” by Yuzo Yamamoto))
c. 1943-1944, printed 1944
Gelatin silver print
Image: 15 x 10.5cm (5 7/8 x 4 1/8 in.)
Mat: 50.8 x 40.64cm (20 x 16 in.)
Frame (outer): 54.61 x 44.45cm (21 1/2 x 17 1/2 in.)
Tomoka Aya, The Third Gallery Aya
© Yamazawa Eiko

Eiko Yamazawa (Japanese, 1899-1995)

Eiko Yamazawa (山沢 栄子, Yamazawa Eiko, February 19, 1899 – July 16, 1995) was a renowned Japanese photographer. She is considered one of Japan’s earliest women photographers and is among the few women photographers in Japan who were active both before and after World War II. First trained in Nihonga, she later studied photography in the U.S. under the mentorship of Consuelo Kanaga, and also exposed to the work of Kanaga’s contemporaries such as Paul Strand and Edward Weston.

Eiko Yamazawa / Reviving the forgotten influence of a pioneering female photographer


Reviving the forgotten influence of a pioneering female photographer

Ahead of the opening of Eiko Yamazawa’s first posthumous retrospective in Tokyo, curator Tsukasa Ikegami discusses the importance of the Japanese photographer’s abstract work, and why her legacy has largely been forgotten

Preview / Japanese Women Photographers-From 1950s to Now

 

KATAYAMA Mari, bystander #014, 2016, Courtesy the artist and Aperture


PREVIEW: Japanese Women Photographers-From 1950s to Now

Rewriting the story of Japanese photography through the eyes of women and showcasing the work of 27 groundbreaking artists from the 1950s to today, the exhibition “Japanese Women Photographers: From 1950s to Now” highlights the perspectives that have shaped how Japan sees itself – and how it is seen by the world.

By Dimitris Lempesis
Photo: The Photographers’ Gallery Archive

Wednesday, November 4, 2026

Photo / Deborah Turbeville-Photocollage

 

Deborah Turbeville, Untitled (Carol Cawthra Hopcraft), near Nairobi, Kenya, 1993 Courtesy of MUUS Collection. © Deborah Turbeville/MUUS Collection

PHOTO: Deborah Turbeville-Photocollage

The American photographer Deborah Turbeville (1932–2013) challenged and reshaped both fashion photography and the ways of working with the photographic image in an artistic context. She belonged to no particular school or movement, yet from the 1970s onwards developed a deeply personal visual language – characterised by a distinctive aesthetic in which timelessness, melancholy, and a sense of patina permeate her photographs.By Dimitris Lempesis

Preview / Nobuyoshi Araki


Nobuyoshi Araki, Mad Old Man 76th Birthday, 2016, © Nobuyoshi Araki, Courtesy the artist and Hamiltons Gallery

PREVIEW: Nobuyoshi Araki

Fascinated by the fundamental and inextricable triangle of sex, life, and death (it is to him we owe the words “I was no sooner out of my mother’s womb than I turned around and photographed her vagina”), Nobuyoshi Araki is tireless as a photographer, obsessed by women, often bound, and flowers, captured in the all the intimacy of their colored folds.

By Dimitris Lempesis
Photo: Hamiltons Gallery Archive

Nobuyoshi Araki -Impossible Love / Vintage Photographs

 



Nobuyoshi Araki, Untitled, from the series Sentimental Journey, 1971, © Nobuyoshi Araki, Photo: Hubert Auer

Nobuyoshi Araki -Impossible Love / Vintage Photographs

Nobuyoshi Araki worked in advertising after completing his studies in photography and film at Chiba University in Tokyo, devoting himself exclusively to photography as of the mid-1960s. His oeuvre spans erotic portraits of women, artificial still-lifes, photographs of plants, documentary-style depictions of everyday life, and architectural photography but also very personal, diaristic photographs of himself and his deceased wife Yoko.

By Dimitris Lempesis
Photo: C/O Berlin Foundation

Tuesday, November 3, 2026

Yayoi Kusama Museum

 

 

OBLITERATION OF LIFE 2011 © YAYOI KUSAMA



YAYOI KUSAMA MUSEUM

Title

The Light Spreads Out, and Glittering Things Start Appearing All Around Me

Dates

Thursday, October 8, 2026 – Sunday, January 31, 2027

All tickets must be purchased in advance online. Entry is timed and only valid for a specific 90-minute time slot.
Please purchase tickets in advance from here.

Art-Presentation / Yayoi Kusama-Every Day I Pray For Love

 

Yayoi Kusama, INFINITY MIRRORED ROOM: LET’S SURVIVE FOREVER (2017) at David Zwirner, New York. Photo courtesy of David Zwirner, New York


ART-PRESENTATION: Yayoi Kusama-Every Day I Pray For Love

One of the most influential artists of the 20TH AND 21ST Centuries, Kusama occupies a unique position within recent art history. Since her early assimilation of pop art and minimalism in the 1960s, she has created a highly personal oeuvre that resonates with a global audience. Distinctly recognizable, her works frequently deploy repetitive elements, such as dots, to evoke both microscopic and macroscopic universes.

By Dimitris Lempesis
Photo: David Zwirner Gallery Archive

Presentation / Yayoi Kusama

 


Installation view «Yayoi Kusama», Fondation Beyeler, Riehen/Basel, 2025 . Yayoi Kusama, Infinity Mirrored Room – Illusion Inside the Heart, 2025, © Yayoi Kusama, Photo: Mark Niedermann


PRESENTATION: Yayoi Kusama

Yayoi Kusama’s work has transcended two of the most important art movements of the second half of the twentieth century: pop art and minimalism. Her highly influential career encompasses paintings, performances, room-size presentations, outdoor sculptural installations, literary works, films, fashion, design, and interventions within existing architectural structures, which allude at once to microscopic and macroscopic universes.

By Dimitris Lempesis
Photo: Fondation Beyeler Archive