Shakespeare and Company bookstore, Paris, France

Shakespeare and Company

Experience books and timelessness in one of the oldest English bookstores of Paris 

9 JULY 2024, 

NIMI SANJITH

The quaint, old bookstore nestled alongside a riverbank, adjacent to a historical monument, in a city that exudes love, art, lights, and fashion, is enough to entice anyone to pay a visit to "Shakespeare and Company." However, the story doesn't merely conclude there. It's a journey that transports you to a realm of books and timelessness. I could endlessly elaborate on the reasons and ways this is so.

An enthusiastic reader often regards reading as an expedition into a realm of limitless imagination. They approach a book with a blank canvas, ready to paint their own interpretation of the world the author has woven. Such a reader also holds a deep fondness for spaces that invigorate and brim with countless tales. Being someone who is captivated by storytelling and hungers for narratives from all corners, a pilgrimage to this English bookstore in Paris was an essential agenda during my trip to the city.

"Shakespeare and Company" is the embodiment of every bibliophile's fantasy. Much like unraveling the pages of a work of fiction, a visit to this store unveils numerous narratives in every nook and cranny. Situated along the Seine's left bank, a stone's throw from the Notre Dame Cathedral, this establishment is one of Paris's oldest English bookstores. Legend has it that it provided refuge to several literary titans of bygone eras. Originally founded by George Whitman in 1951 under the name "Le Mistral," the building's architecture initially faced criticism. However, Whitman repurposed the store as a haven for aspiring writers and artists, offering them shelter during their trying times in Paris. In exchange for assistance around the bookstore, these individuals found a place to stay. In 1964, Whitman bestowed the name "Shakespeare and Company" upon the bookstore, borrowing it from Sylvia Beach's establishment of the same name, which was established in 1919 and shuttered in 1941. Since then, it has persisted as a haven for secondhand books, an assortment of antique volumes, and a public library that patrons are free to peruse.

On the day I decided to visit "Shakespeare and Company," heavy rain was falling. I assumed there would be fewer crowds everywhere. Yet, as Paris is renowned for, no inclement weather can hinder the city's celebration of art, literature, and architecture. Turning into the lane adjacent to Notre Dame, the street leading to the bookstore already displayed a queue of people waiting to enter. I then learned the rule that allowed only twenty people inside the store at any given time. However, there was no time limit for how long one could stay within. As patrons exited, others entered. Everyone waited patiently, and I had my 5-year-old daughter with me, eager to witness one of the world's oldest stores. The café next to the store provided a convenient spot for those seeking relaxation while waiting, and I must note that it offered some of the finest coffee in Paris. Sipping hot, steaming coffee on a rainy day amidst the presence of books spanning three generations was sheer bliss for an enthusiast's soul.

Stepping into the store, I felt as though I had entered the libraries of our great-grandparents, with books piled up to the ceiling. The ground floor housed new releases, neatly organized by various genres as in a typical bookstore. However, there were quite a few unique selections within the poetry and literature sections. Each shelf featured in-store recommendations for content and aesthetic front covers. Moving to the first floor, I encountered an antique collection and cozy reading corners. One could recline on a windowsill and delve into grand, ancient tales. Numerous beds were nestled between bookshelves, said to have accommodated 30,000 individuals who assisted around the store. Countless stories adorned the walls in the form of pictures, and hours could be spent reading and uncovering them all. I noticed many regular visitors engaging in casual and friendly conversations with the storekeepers. I couldn't resist making a purchase, and I'm pleased I did, for it came with a timeless stamp and a cherished bookmark.

Visitors should be aware that photography is not permitted inside the store. They encourage you to stow away your phones and explore. While it might seem like a missed opportunity for your social media feed, some stories are best experienced through your own eyes rather than the lens of a camera. Though I lack physical photographs of the space I discovered, I experienced a sense of timelessness. That mental image can convey a story that exceeds a thousand words. "Shakespeare and Company" is a haven not only for those who adore immersing themselves in Paris and books but also for a timeless romance that can be kindled with literature, coffee, a touch of Parisian ambiance, and endless tales from a bygone era.

MEER

 

Van Gogh Village Museum, Nuenen, the Netherlands

Van Gogh Village in Nuenen

A trail that explores the journey of an artist into creating his masterpieces

9 JUNE 2024, 

NIMI SANJITH

The life of an artist is a mystery that takes much research and study to unearth. However many documentaries are made, many pieces are left out, like an unfinished jigsaw puzzle. Art lovers and enthusiasts spend their lifetimes researching every painting to understand the story that formed it. But imagine experiencing these stories within a day spent in a quaint little village in Europe called Nuenen. 

This village in the Netherlands was home to Vincent Van Gogh during his early years. He lived here for just two years, but it was the most significant period in terms of laying the foundation for his journey as an artist. It was through the walks he took here and his interactions with the peasants and commoners that he created realist paintings in the era of Impressionism. Before moving to Belgium and then to France for further studies, Van Gogh's identity was particularly shaped by his life in Nuenen. "The Potato Eaters" was created by Van Gogh while he was in this village after his encounter with a peasant family. And today, Nuenen is home to 24 locations that are immortalized by Van Gogh in his paintings and sketches or that have some connection with him.

4. Van Gogh, The church of Nuenen with churchgoers

Nuenen is a place in the Dutch province of North Brabant , located in the meierij 's-Hertogenbosch , between Helmond and Eindhoven. Vincent van Gogh lived in Nuenen from December 1883 until November 1885. And if you want to tread in the footsteps of this world-famous artist, here’s the trail you could follow. The Opwetten Water Mill at Nuenen is almost like living in one of Van Gogh's paintings. Van Gogh frequented this water mill and has even mentioned working here in one of his letters to his brother Theo. Water Mill at Opwetten is an oil painting created in 1884 by Vincent van Gogh. It’s one of his first notable works that precedes his early masterpiece, The Potato Eaters.

Old Church Tower at Nuenen (or The Peasants' Churchyard) are names given to several oil paintings and drawings created in 1884 and 1885 by Vincent van Gogh. Most reflect the way the 12th-century church looked in its better days, when its spire was intact and its foundation formidable. Van Gogh could greatly connect with the people of the village and engage in talks with them to understand their lives and reflect on them through his works. His portraits were a result of the close observations he made through those encounters.

Van Gogh's first large-scale painting, The Potato Eaters, was completed in 1885. A symbolic and physical representation of this painting is evident in this village, and it is an unmissable creation trail. Vincent often worked at the De Groot family's cottage, and it was there that he came up with the idea of painting The Potato Eaters. The family was comprised of mother Cornelia; her children, Hendrikus, Peter, and Gordina (Sien); and Gordina's son, Cornelis. Vincent often made portraits of Gordina (1855–1927). At least twenty studies of her are known, and it is certain that she is one of the figures depicted in The Potato Eaters.

4. Tower of the Old Church, by Vincent van Gogh, 1885

The Potato Eaters was the first work Vincent considered a real painting, in contrast to the many painted studies he had made. It brought together elements that had greatly concerned him, such as figure studies and the creation of contrasts between light and dark. In addition, The Potato Eaters fulfilled Vincent's desire to produce a genuine painting of peasants. From his writing, it is clear that Vincent also sought greater meaning in the work. The painting is still considered Vincent's best work from his Dutch period. There are three different painted versions of The Potato Eaters: a sketch, a study, and the final work. Vincent also produced a lithograph based on the study.

The house of Margot Begemann is another poignant detail of Van Gogh's life in Nuenen. The love affair they had, the walks they took together, and her home, where they have spent time together, are subtly showing an emphatic emotional side to the artist.

The Van Gogh Village, or Vincentre, is a nice culmination of the works of the artist made in Nuenen. The museum showcases both indoor and outdoor exhibits of all his notable works, styles, and lives. A detailed analysis of The Potato Eaters, a photo booth exhibit letting us be a part of the iconic painting, and a demonstration of light and shadow implied in his works are just a few attractions to the wholesome experience of the art museum.

History accounts for many artists who saw failures, but there's only one who lived in disheartenment but kept creating art to remain sane and passionate, and then he doesn't live to see the world celebrate him and his art. But today he's celebrated as an icon of not just art by the millennials. Vincent Van Gogh is more than an artist today. He represents thoughts like: failure is not for a lifetime to decide; a legend never dies; and the most enthusing one quoted by the artist himself: "In spite of everything, I shall rise again."

MEER